Day 17 - Abbotsbury to Portland

Time Departed: 9.15am

Time Arrived: 3.15pm 

Distance: 22kms 

Cumulative Distance: 263kms 

Percentage Complete: 74% 

Number of Steps: 33,000 (342,000)

Walking Grade: Easy and some moderate 

Weather: Overcast, humid and cool

Accommodation: The Aqua Hotel

Feelings: Henk - Relaxed, Di - Relaxed

This was a longer day but a much easier one, however, when we arrived at the hotel we were footsore and ready to stop. There were no places to stop for lunch or coffees so we headed to Abbotsbury’s tiny but well-stocked Spa to buy morning tea and lunch supplies. We took the path leading from the Spa instead of going past the church and abbey and we were soon on the coastal path again. We went past the Swannery which wasn’t open as we were too early. This was established by the Benedictine Monks 600 years ago and we had seen it on Michael Portillo’s program in Australia. There was then a five kilometre walk along a ridge and through fields with great views.

 We finally descended to the western end of The Fleet and found a seat. It was now eleven o’clock and we had a ten minute break and had morning tea.

We passed through a number of lovely art-inspired gates.

Today we greatly appreciated Chesil Beach; this was probably because we weren’t walking on it. It was formed 6,000 years ago and it was pushed onshore by rising sea-levels. It’s 29kms long and up to an amazing 15m high and made up of 100 million tonnes of pebbles. Interestingly it is still moving inland at five metres each 100 years. 

At one o’clock we had hugged The Fleet on our right since morning tea and walked alongside farmland. We had completed 14kms and with only 8kms to go we decided to stop for lunch at Littlesea Holiday Park. All along the coastline we have come across these holiday parks. We couldn’t find a bench so we sat on the ground behind a hedge to protect us from the wind. We only stayed for fifteen minutes as we didn’t want to cool down too much.

Thankfully, when we reached the MOD’s Chickerell Rifle Range there were no red flags so we could use the coastal path rather than taking a diversion. 

We often pass walkers who give good advice. Today a woman told us that the path was closed before reaching Ferrybridge but if we were lucky we could walk on the beach instead of taking the high diversion. When we reached the blocked path we descended steps to the beach and an old guy sitting on his boat said we may be lucky to make it before the tide rises higher if we could get around the pill box which we could see in the distance. Henk and I walked quickly on the stony beach and we could see it was going to be touch and go.

Henk took the lead and climbed over a muddy, clay embankment with the waves lapping but we were able to get around and continue to meet up with the coastal path. 

The last three kilometres from Ferrybridge to our accommodation was a real slog. The path followed a dismantled railway-line. Our guide book called it a dreary roadside trudge and it was a good description made worse by the stones on the path, hence us feeling footsore on arrival.

A half hour nap and hot showers reinvigorated us. We headed out to dinner at six thirty. The first recommended pub, The Little Ship was closed for meals. It had the high wall of Chesil Beach behind it. 

We walked to The Cove House Inn, the next recommendation. This inn is near the end of Chesil Beach. 

It was busy and we readily accepted a thirty minute wait for a table and had a drink at the bar. Our meals were excellent and we could see why it was popular with the locals. I had a locally caught whole plaice with mussels and Henk had crab linguini. 

Tomorrow we have a few options for walking so before we head out we need to make some decisions. We will do that tomorrow morning.