Day 12 - Sidmouth to Beer 

Time Departed: 8.45am

Time Arrived: 2.30pm 

Distance: 15 kms 

Cumulative Distance: 194kms 

Percentage Complete: 54% 

Number of Steps: 26,000 (254,000)

Walking Grade: Sever and strenuous 

Weather: Sunny, passing showers, storm forecast. Min 10c, max 17c. 

Accommodation: Anchor Inn

Feelings: Henk - good, Di - good

What a difference a day makes! When we emerged from the hotel it was a beautiful morning and the promenade looked terrific in the morning light. The sea was calm again and the surfers had gone. We could still see the reddish water as a result of the the sea washing against the red cliffs.

There was a storm forecast at 3.00pm and we were keen to be off the path by then if possible. We thought it was “doable” as we only had to walk 15kms, however, the path was listed as severe and strenuous so that would slow us down. Our first climb was at the end of the Sidmouth promenade where we climbed Salcombe Hill. When we finished climbing it, we turned and had wonderful views over the town and countryside. The promenade looked a long way down and it was lovely to see the rainbow over the far cliff.

Today’s walk along the Jurassic Coast World Heritage often took us way down from the cliffs to the beaches and up the other side. From Salcombe Hill it started to rain lightly so Henk and I took out our Exmouth market brollies rather than don our rain jackets. We watched the showers come across from the sea at regular intervals.

We met a fellow walker from Reading. He was like a billygoat going up the hills but slower coming down so we kept pace with each other for a couple of hours. At five kilometres the path took us down to the stony beach of Weston Mouth before climbing the next cliff. 

We thought we might diverge from the coast path and go into Boscombe for lunch but after meeting up with another walker he recommended a cafe at Boscombe Mouth which didn’t feature on our maps. It was a good suggestion as it was on the path and we arrived at the busy, large cafe at 12.45pm. We were ready for a break and some food. We opted for large, homemade hot pasties which were terrific.

After lunch we had seven kilometres to go to reach Beer and our timing was good with the forecast storm. It was fascinating to be walking between the high cliffs and we could see the sedimentary layers. Close to Beer the red cliffs gave way to white cliffs. 

We didn’t see any dinosaur bones or fossils! The path wasn’t as severe as suggested (or are we getting fitter?) and we made good time in spite of the 140 steps to the top of the last cliff, Beer Head. We met a local chap coming down the steps who said “it was blowing a hooley” on top of the cliff and we soon learned what a “hooley” was. The wind was very strong. We had excellent views over Seaton and the little, colourful beach huts. The coastal path was very close to the edge and a barbed wire fence was in place. 

Beer is a lovely, old fishing village. Our hotel is a stone’s throw from the little bay. 

The forecast storm didn’t eventuate but there were late afternoon squalls and we had a wonderful rainbow over the sea. 

Tomorrow we walk from Devon into Dorset just before Lyme Regis where we will have a rest day.